Steak Lunch on a Split Wood Fire

While at the land today working on the deer stand, I decided to make a split wood fire which would ultimately be used to cook my steak.  I used a Sven saw which I recently acquired by trading a couple of sharpening stones that I don't use.  The split wood fire was the longer way to go about the process but the end result of a nice steak during a hard day sure was nice.

Sumac Trees

The area I've been clearing for an additional deer stand which is covered with a unique tree/shrub I've not seen before.  I took the picture above and below to research the type of tree it is and found that it is a Sumac.  Strangely, they only grow on the top of this hill area where the soil is sandy and rocky.  

From what I can tell, there is nothing particular special about the tree.  In the past, the tea was made from the berries but there is little other value.  Makes me feel a little better as I've cut down quite a few of them now.  

I found this interesting blog post by an individual who provides good information on how to control and remove sumac.  He suggests the use of Garlon 3A but it seems that also kills oaks and elms so if I were to use it, I would need to be very careful and focused on where it is placed with all the other trees around.

New Stand Site Planning

I'm working on a new location to place a deer stand on my property.  The existing location requires that you walk into the middle of the property.  With the new location, I can walk along the north edge, cut through some trees, and then be in a clearing which is near the tank.  

The view towards the left of the new location includes the only tank on the property.  It is a little low at the moment as it is the end of July and we have not had much rain lately.

The view straight ahead does not offer much to look at.  There is a small cedar straight ahead about 35 yards.  Just beyond this cedar, the land drops off about 10'.  I won't be clearing any area here as I'd never get high enough to see down that drop off.

The view to the right includes the path that leads to the cabin.  Beyond the path is are some trees.  There is a path in those trees which leads to the current stand and feeder.  I'd like to incorporate a view of that trail as it is frequented by animals due to the years of having the feeder in the same location.

Today, I cleared some of the brush around the edge of the tank so I can see the entire tank from the new stand location.

The next step will be clearing to the right towards where the existing stand and feeder are located.

Here is a video I made mostly for myself before I started work today which shows what you should be able to see from the stand location.  Video

Building a Barb Wire fence

This week, I spent time helping my dad build a barb wire fence along the back edge of his property.  There are often things you pick up doing such a project but then forget the next time the job is needed.  I'll include some notes on our steps and some ideas to make the process easier in the future.

• The initial step in this project is building H structures at the end of the areas to be fenced.  If the fence line is longer than 1000' it is best to install another H in the center or every 1000'.
• Pull string from one H structure to another along ground to get a straight line marking the location of the new fence.  Ensure the string is off the ground and not caught on any twigs which would keep it from running straight.
• Cut a stick to 10' and use this along string to mark the location of each post.  Use marking spray paint on the ground to mark all post at the same time to speed up the process.
• When spraying marks, use a T shape mark with the top portion of the T following the string line and the lower portion marking exactly the 10' increment.  You can then remove the string so it is not in the way when digging the post holes.
• Every 6th post should be wood or metal with T posts used in between.  No T posts are installed until the first run of barbed wire is attached to the wood/metal posts so you can ensure they are straight.
• Work your way from the bottom to the top with one run of barb wire at a time.  Each run should be similar in how tight the barb wire is stretched.  Fasten each run of barb wire to the T post before starting another row to avoid a tangled mess of barb wire.

Esee JG3 Knife

This is an Esee Camplore JG3 knife which I have slightly modified. The handle was a little thin so I added 1/32" orange micarta liners.  The she has been wet formed, dyed, and sno-sealed the sheath.  The knife is in great condition but I look at it more than use it so it seems best to pass it along now.

Specs:

• Overall Length: 7.625"
• Blade Length: 3.50"
• Blade Thickness: 0.125"
• Blade Material: 1095 Steel

Electric Service - New Utility Pole Installed

This week, we spent a few vacation days at our land and installed our new utility pole.  

We used a pole style chain saw to remove a few limbs from the nearby tree.  We then purchased the utility pole from a town about 10 miles down the road.  The extent of our work was then dropping it in the hole and filling back in the hole we dug around the pole.

The electric company came and inspected our utility pole.  Since there were no issues with placement or depth, they connected our electricity.  At this point, we do not have wiring to connect to our cabin but at least we have electricity to the property.  

For the short term, I'll install a weatherproof outlet on the pole so we at least have an option to use electricity.  The cabin is not far away so I could use a long extension cord to run a few electrical items in the cabin until we get the underground cabling run.  

Pair of Vintage Norlund Axes

I've a set of Norlund axes which are rather prized as they were not produced long but were exceptional axes.  The set consists of a Camper axe and a hatchet with a similarly styled head.

The Camper axe is a a medium size axe which is incredibly easy to handle.  I originally purchased the axe on eBay and have admittedly not done a great deal to improve it.  Honestly, I tend to admire the axe more than use it as I don't want to damage it.  

The head has much of the original greenish maroon coloring.  The head is in excellent condition for its age with a crisp Genuine Norlund makers mark.  The head has a 4 1/8" sharpened edge which is 6 1/2" from edge to poll.  The axe is ground with a 27.5 degree edge and the poll is 2 3/8" in length.

The poll has a casting imperfection along the side but there are no marks to indicate it was ever hit on anything.

From the maker, the axe had one step wedge in the top.  Over the years, a second was added to tighten up the fit.  The head is not loose but when I've used it in the past, the head has moved about 1/8" toward the end of the handle.  During one use, I did not have a clean hit and it made a mark on the handle.  Since then I've not used it much.

The Norlund hatchet is also in really good condition.  There is a small of very light pitting.  There is no current sign of rust so I've not done anything to clean it up.  I figure it is better to leave it as close to original as possible.  

The axe head has the older makers mark which just states 'Norlund'.  The sharpened edge is 3 1/4" and the head is 6" from edge to poll.  The edge is ground at a 25 degree angle and the poll is 2 3/8" long.

The top of the head is still covered with some orange paint which was applied at the factory.

The poll of this axe is also in very good condition with no indication it has ever hit anything.