New Queen Bed

With some of the Federal Stimulus Program money, we decided to purchase a bed for the cabin.  There was once a full size bed in the cabin but we ended up giving it to my son.  It was a little small for us so we wanted to eventually get a queen size bed to replace it.  I purchased the Springfield model mattress this past Monday from a place called Mattress by Appointment.

I purchased the bed and did not realize it at the time but it was made in Corsicana Texas by Corsicana Bedding.  I setup the bed this morning with some pillows from Wal-Mart and a few sheets we have left over from sets that we use at home.  The cabin is really crowded now with tools and unused items but it is becoming at least a bit more functional for an extended stay.

Dining Room Table

Using some of the Federal Stimulus Money, we purchased a used dining room table for the land.  I drove much farther than I really should have to buy it but it was the size that I wanted.  It also had a nice look that I expected to compliment the cabin appearance.  The total price for the table, leaf (not inserted), and six chairs (only 4 shown) was $200.  Quite a bargain in my opinion considering the condition of the table.

My plan was to buy a table exactly this size so that those sitting could look out the windows, it could be pushed against the wall, four people could sit along the sides, but it was not so long that it extended into the walk way through the cabin.  This was a perfect fit and greatly improves the comfort of the cabin.

I also purchased a set of Daniell's salt and pepper shakers (shown on table) from eBay this week.  They are similar to those my grandparents used when it was growing up.  They seal on the top so that moisture does not get in.  I purchased them for the sealing reason and also just being a bit fond of them from many years ago.

Soil Sample Collection for Testing

After having cattle on the property, I became very aware of the importance of quality grass for the cattle to eat.  My property has very little grass and is more overrun with weeds.  I believe it is in some part due to all the bulldozer work in years past along the fence lines which disturbed all the top soil and opened the door for weeds to take over.  This is something I'd like to address especially on the west side of my property which grows over each year with head high weeds.

Today, I decided to start with a few soil samples to submit for testing.  I decided I'd create one sample from various places in the homesite area, a second sample from various places on the north fence line, a third sample from various places on the west fence line were it is so overgrown, and then a final sample from a few places around the tank.  The sample from around the tank is more for potentially adding a deer food plot.

There are other options available to get your soil tested.  I've been reading the GameKeeper magazine a bit lately and read up on their soil testing process.  Mossy Oak charges $7.50 per sample and will provide you with the basic results and will also indicate what products they have which would be fitting for a deer food plot.  I purchased four soil samples from them today and will be sending in the paperwork and samples this coming week.  I'll update with the results once they are in.

Mossy Oak Biologic Soil Testing
https://www.plantbiologic.com/pages/soil-testing-food-plot

I took pictures of every place where I collected a sample.  It took just a few seconds more at each site but then I would remember exactly where I tested and where I did not.  Here are the pictures from the area that I'm referring to as the home site.

Small Fence Around Deer Feeder

I generally do not run the corn feeder on my 30 acre piece of property.  There are far more hogs than deer and without a fence around the feeder, I end up just creating a reason for the nuisance hogs to stay on my place.  Today, I decided to cut down some extra cattle panels to make a small pen around the feeder allowing me to run the feeder without attracting hogs.

I cut almost three full horizontal bars off the cattle panels leaving me with a 32" panel which is about the same as a regular hog panel (34").  I had five full 16' panels plus a small 5' section that I used as a gate to enter to fill the feeder.  I used eleven 5' t-posts to anchor it to the ground.  Overall, it took a bit over an hour to setup after I cut the panels down to size.

I put up my game camera in hopes of getting a few pictures of deer.  This will help to see what deer frequent the area.  I'm in the process of switching my property tax status from cattle (Agriculture Exemption) to a Wildlife Management Exemption.  As part of this process, I will need to submit counts on the number of deer on my property each year and this will help that process.

DR Field and Brush Mower Maintenance

I purchased a used DR pull behind field and brush mower about two years ago to maintain the land.  The first few uses it worked without any trouble.  However, the second year of use I struggled with the mower not wanting to stay running and it would often die when I attempted to engage the blades.  

I initially thought the problem was caused by the fuel filter so I replaced the fuel filter in September 2018 but found it made no difference.  

In December 2018, I removed the carburetor and cleaned it up but did not replace any of the components.  Inside the fuel bowl, I found orange colored residue which I assumed to have been bad fuel.  I reinstalled it with a new air filter but still had the same troubles.

In April 2019, I managed to get the mower to work a little by keeping it on choke.  It would still die when I was going up a hill or over anything thick.  However, I was able to mow a section of the property.  In the process, I noticed the engine did not want to start with the key and it appeared the actual starter switch (made of plastic) was worn out.

In August 2019, I installed a new starter switch and found the mower would still not start using the switch.  At this time, I noticed the starter solenoid was also cracked and would not work.  I started it manually by bypassing the solenoid but it would not continue to run or allow the blades to be turned on without killing the engine.

September 7th, 2019 - I replaced all the fuel lines with 1/4" line, installed a new fuel filter, replaced the starter solenoid, drained the fuel tank, and then washed out the tank with B-12 before adding fresh fuel.  I was then able to get the engine to start and it ran better.  However, if I tried to turn on the mower blades it would die.  It seems the fuel filter is not filling much at all with fuel (like at all).

September 21st, 2019 - This weekend I changed the oil and put on a new oil filter.  I found a replacement gas cap which fit the tank and installed it, and then I started work on the fuel pump.  The job was not bad but once I was done, I started it four times with starter fluid and it would not continue to run.  I probably could have tried a few more times but I think something must be up with the carburetor.  I hate to just keep throwing money at it but I don't know what is wrong and at this point, it seems it must be the carb as everything else has been replaced.

At this point, the time shown on the mower is 68.8 hours. 

October 4th, 2019 - This weekend I rebuilt the carb by soaking it in B12 then replacing the float bowl, float bowl gaskets, needle, and each of the gaskets to install it.  I plan to install it along with two new spark plugs this coming weekend.  Hopefully, this will get it running as I've replaced the entire fuel system now minus the carb which has been rebuilt.

This time, the float bowl has a large number of black flakes inside.  I'm not sure what this is but a guess is the it is part of the deteriorating fuel lines that I just replaced.  

Parts Listing (Alphabetical Order)

Air Filter - Kawasaki 11013-7031

Fuel Filter - Kohler 25 050 22-S (currently using APE Racing replacement)

Fuel Hose - 1/4" Diameter

Fuel Pump - DR 49040-0769

Drive Belt - DR 221331

Oil Filter - Fram TG4967

Spark Plug - Champion RCJ-8Y

Starter Solenoid - QuickCar Products 50-430

Garden Fence - Removing Rocks

As the garden was used in years past, it seems any rocks encountered were tossed along the edge of the fence.  With the fence now removed, there were piles of rocks all around where it once stood.  Today, I worked on moving these so that I can ultimately flatten out the land.

I gathered two large loads of rocks from around the garden.  I imagine there are more rocks in the piles of dirt which essentially ran along the bottom of the fence.  I assume as they worked the land the rocks were thrown by the fence out of the way and then might have been covered with dirt when the garden was tilled.  I'm not sure but it essentially left an 8" mount of dirt and rocks around the perimeter.  

I'm not exactly sure of what to do with all the rocks.  The property is at the top of a hill and there is no shortage of rocks.  My understanding is that the clearings on the property were made will a bulldozer many years ago.  There are piles of rocks that I believe exist from that process.  I added the rocks to one of the existing piles near the tank.  I'm afraid I'm essentially making a snake den but I guess it was already on the path to being one anyway.  

With the rocks removed, the only task left with the garden is to level the land.  I'll work out use of a machine to help with this as it will be quite a bit of dirt to move.

Front Gate - Fencing Attachment Pole

The picture below is of the attachment point for the field fence once it reaches a gate.  The approach is nice as it keeps you from wrapping the ends of the field fence around the pole where the gate opens and closes.  I plan to mimic this as I expand the original fence to form a fence around the home site area.

  

There are two stand off pieces which are roughly 2" x 2" x 1/4"

The rod is around 52" tall and is 3/4" in diameter.  I'll have to pick these up at a steel supply company.  My planning shows that I will need to add nine of these two the fence when my plan is complete.  I'll need quite a bit of the pipe as well.